The ingredients and techniques used in making trapping baits and lures, for those inclined, can be a pretty fascinating hobby. In many ways, it can also be frustrating. It will never be an exact, ounce-by-ounce science, because the ingredients used vary in strength and quality from region to region, from year to year, from month to month, and from time spent in storage.

Just as an example, the skunk essence from a skunk in North Dakota will be different from the skunk essence from a skunk in Oklahoma, and both will be different from one taken in Nebraska. That's just the way things are.

The months of May, June, July, and August are considered the bait-making months. It is also the blowfly and maggot months, so you will constantly have to guard against these pests getting into your processing jars. If maggots make their way into your fish oil, they will turn a great bait into worthless sewage in pretty short order.

To make this even more complicated, you will also have to provide for some means of gas escape. As baits and lures age, gases are released. If they are not vented, the contents will explode as soon as you loosen the lid. How big a problem is this? Well, I once had a gallon jar of liquified, rotted mice explode in my face. And though it's been almost half a century since that happened, I still remember it like it was yesterday. So please, when I tell you to provide for gas escape, I'm really not kidding.

I'll give you some of the recipes and techniques that I've used over the years, but there are no rules other than the ones I've outlined above. Don't be afraid to experiment. The conditions on my trapline will be different from the conditions on yours, and experimentation is what makes this hobby fascinating and fun.

I've sort of been debating with myself how to start this topic. The most logical would be to go through all the essential oils and animal parts and secretions used in making baits and lures. But that can be pretty boring, and this project will both get you started, and some of the methods used to control blowflies and maggots, and provide for gas escape. So, without further ado, here is how to make...

SUN-RENDERED FISH OIL

If you're making fish oil for a top-notch liquid raccoon bait, almost any type of fish is suitable. However, if it's to be used as a lure base, you really want it to be light-textured and not lumpy or rank. All species of trout, including sea trout (weakfish) are especially valued for this purpose, but there aren't too many of them here in Oklahoma. I've usually used catfish or carp for my purposes, and had good luck with it.

Several years ago, when my grandkids were growing up, I would take them fishing for perch or bluegill. They were easy to catch, and the kids loved it. Just on a whim, I made some fish oil with these, and I was more than happy with the results.

You will need a wide-mouth gallon jar with a lid. Then, figure out how you're going to keep maggots out and provide for gas to escape. The easiest way, which unfortunately doesn't work too well with the famous winds here in Oklahoma, is to put a pane of glass over the jar and weight it down with a rock or brick. You can also try screwing the lid down over a couple layers of cheese cloth or flannel. Or, you can punch several holes in the lid, cover it with three or four layers of flannel, and secure it with wire. Or, you can put the lid on loosely, wrap several layers of flannel around it, and again secure it with wire.

I'd really like to find out who came up with the idea of using wine cocks. ( Go here, and scroll down to the bottom of the page. ) You'll have to check it periodically to make sure the water hasn't evaporated away, but this simple product has revolutionized my bait-making.

Once you've figured out how you're going to go about it, it's time to go about it. Skin and filet the fish, and cut it up into about 1-inch chunks. Place the fish chunks into the jar until it's about 2/3 full. Prevent maggots and allow for gas to escape, then place the jar someplace where the morning and afternoon sun will warm the contents. The roof of a shed works, or you can place it on a sidehill where it will get plenty of sun.

Slowly at first, the cubes of fish will begin "working," or bubbling. In about a week or so, the oils will begin to rise to the top.

There is no standard time for this process to complete, since it depends so much on the climate. It may take a couple months, or it may take much longer. You will just have to use your own judgment. When you feel the oils are free of flesh, you can end the process.

The oil that has risen to the top should be spooned into a different container. After a few days, you will notice that a lighter oil has reformed and risen. Spoon this out, and add it to the same container. Continue to do this until you feel that all of the light oil has risen. This is the "best" fish oil, the top oil, suitable for use as a lure base.

But don't throw the rest of it away. The partially decomposed cubes can now be strained out, to free them of the "fish juice" that has settle on the bottom. This "fish juice," by itself, is a pretty fair raccoon liquid bait, but it's better when it's mixed with glycerine oil and various musks and and other ingredients. (This "fish juice" was one of the "secret ingredients" advertised in old-time trapping catalogs.)

Store each container in a cool, dark place, free of insects or contaminants. You can also bury them below ground level in a shaded spot, but be sure to dig them up before the ground freezes. Don't tighten the lids all the way, since some gases may still form.

This fish oil is just as good or better than any that you can buy (for about $25 a gallon).

Any questions? Any second thought s about making baits and lures? Remember, I love comments.

Onward and upward,
airforce

ESSENTIAL OILS

There are so many essential oils available for lure and bait making that I'm sure people are confused by them. Add to this that some of them are available in pure liquid form, while other are only available as powders, pastes, crystals, or tinctures, and it becomes even more bewildering. In this section, I'll try to explain what they are, how they are used, and try to take some of the mystery out of them.

No one knows when man first began to distill essential oils from plant life. Long before Jesus walked the earth, skilled craftsmen were extracting the oils from certain plants for perfumes, as seasonings for food, and probably for trapping. The equipment used today is a little more sophisticated, but in most cases the actual process remains the same.

Many oils are not made today, or their costs make them prohibitively expensive. The last I heard, genuine catnip oil was selling for about $400 an ounce--and that was thirty years ago. However, manufactured substitutes are available, and in many cases they are equal to or even superior to the original product.

So, with all that being said, here are some of the essential oils and other ingredients available for baits and lures. In most cases, I have used these at one time or another; if I have not, I will say so.

AMBER OIL

This is one of the oils I haven't personally used. Actually a resin, it has a harsh odor, but just a few drops of Lovage Oil to a gallon of Amber is enough to remove the harshness and give it a minty odor, which is supposed to be farther-reaching than other mint odors. Often used as a straight lure (with the harshness gone) for muskrat, raccoon beaver, fox, coyote, and even wolf.

AMBERGRIS OIL

Believe it or not, this comes from sperm whale vomit. it is a product of the diseased intestinal tracts of sperm whales, which washes up on certain shores in the Far East. It's extremely valuable to both the trapping and perfume industry, but is seldom available today. In fact, I don't even know if it's legal to sell it in the U.S. now, and if it were, we couldn't afford it. However, the manufactured substitute is quite good.

It's usually thought of as a carrier of scent, but I think it's greatest value is as a fixative. Like most fixatives, it should be used sparingly.

AMBRETTE MUSK

Often mistaken for muskrat musk by everybody except muskrats, it's good for any lure formula which calls for a full-strength musk odor. A powerful fixative, and so concentrated that only a few drops is enough for as much as a gallon of bait.

It's usually available in tinctured or crystal form. It's mostly used for muskrat, raccoon, beaver, and fox lures.

ANISE OIL

I have a couple "secret ingredients" of my own, and this is one of them. When I need a lure for raccoon, anise oil alone is the first thing I try. One of my favorite sets is a combination set for muskrat and raccoon just on the bank of a creek, and this is the only lure I use for that. a little expensive compared to some other oils, but well worth the price. it's also attractive to beaver, though my own beaver-trapping experience is limited. it's sometimes available in crystalline form, which is a little cheaper.

APPLE EXTRACT

If I had to choose just one essential oil for all of you meat and survival trappers, this would be it. Apple slices and apple extract go together like pizza and beer, and I've caught many squirrels, rabbits, moles, and gophers in box traps with this combination. Deer are especially attracted to it.

Apple essence is also available, but I think the extract is better.

BERGAMOT

Extracted from pears, and used much the same as apple extract. It's especially attractive to beaver. I haven't used this one, and know little about it.

-----

That should be enough to get this section started. I'll continue this later. As always, I welcome your questions and comments. Criticisms are less welcome, but I'll even take them.

Onward and upward,
airforce

CANTON MUSK

A musk from Asian and Indian deer. Usually only the artificial product is available, which works well.

CARAMEL ESSENCE

A sweetener, best known for its use in candies. It's attractive to muskrats and especially to raccoon. I've never used this, but on a whim I once baited a cubby with a Tootsie Roll and caught a coon with it. Not exactly a scientific test, but hey.

CATNIP

many years ago when my daughters were little, even their pet kitten got a Christmas gift. The catnip-filled toy kept the feline occupied for quite a while, until it finally figured out there really wasn't anything good in it. Catnip, combined with the cat's natural scent glands, is a favorite bait for cats. The manufactured substitute is as good or better as the original, and is also often used in formulation for raccoon and beaver lures.

CHERRY

A concentrated oil, derived from trees bearing the wild fruit. Used as a straight lure and in formulation for muskrat and raccoon.

CUMIN
CUMMINGS
CHENOPODIUM

These are used as fixatives in both lures and baits, mostly for canines. They are extremely powerful (cumin especially so) and should be used sparingly, or else their odors will dominate the lure or bait.

FENNEL

This comes from a plant in the carrot family. It's used both as a straight lure and in formulation for muskrat, raccoon, and beaver. Sometimes even foxes, apparently eager for a change of pace, are attracted to it. I don't have as much experience with this one as I should, simply because sweetflag and spearmint seem to work better on the traplines I've had.

LAVENDER

An oil from a plant in the mint family, prized even in Biblical times for its use in perfumes. Attractive to both muskrat and raccoon.

LOVAGE

A "passion" ingredient for fox, coyote, and wolf lures. Used only in formulation, where the lovage is most usually the dominating odor.

MUSKARO, OR MUSCARO

A musky scent derived from a number of ingredients. Sometimes used as a straight lure, but usually used in formulation with other ingredients for muskrat, raccoon, beaver, and fox. Its fixative qualities make it especially suitable for this.

OAK MOSS RESINOID

Another powerful fixative that was used in old-time fox, coyote, and wolf lures. Like most fixatives, it should be used very sparingly.

ORRIS

Used as a fixative since before the time of Christ, its roots are still dried, powdered, and used in sachets. Used in fox, coyote, and wolf lures. This is another product I haven't yet tried.

PENNYROYAL

This is a plant that used to be common in pastures and feed lots. The genuine product is hard to find today, but manufactured substitutes are quite close. Used for muskrat and raccoon, who like the minty odor. My experience with this one is very limited.

PEPPERMINT

One of my two favorite muskrat lures, also used for raccoon. It's often overlooked because of the high price, but this is extremely powerful. No more than a drop or two is needed at a set, which makes this lure very cost-effective.

POPLAR

Used only as a straight lure for muskrat and beaver. My experience with this is very limited.

RHODIUM

Usually used in combination with muskrat musk, beaver castor or both. Also used with fennel. Attracts muskrats, raccoon, and beaver.

More later. As always, your comments are welcome.

Onward and upward,
airforce

RUE

This is another of those "secret ingredients" professional lure makers are always talking about. It is both a fixative and a carrier of odors. I don't think its own odor has any value, but that's not why it should be used. No more than four to six drops should be used per pint of lure. (And trust me, that's a lot of lure.) Used mostly for fox and sometimes wolf lures.

SPEARMINT

Often used straight and in formulation for muskrat and raccoon. I keep meaning to give this one a try, but never have. Considering how the critters like minty, candy odors, I would imagine it would work well.

SWEETFLAG

My favorite muskrat lure. Also attractive to raccoon and beaver. if I had to work with only one muskrat lure, this would be it.

SWEET MUSK

A product similar to Muskaro, it's actually a combination of several ingredients. To be honest, I can't tell the two of them apart.

SWEET NORTHERN BIRCH
SWEET SOUTHERN BIRCH

When I was a kid, I used to love birch beer. (I think it's mostly called root beer these days.) Well, muskrat and raccoon still like it.

TONQUIN MUSK

Another of those "secret ingredients," used mostly for canines. Its fixative qualities make it excellent in formulation. Also used, relatively rarely, as a straight lure.

VALERIAN

Mostly known for its medicinal value, it's probably used mostly for canines, but is also used in muskrat, beaver, and raccoon lures. The extracted oil or tinctured powder is often used alone.

WINTERGREEN

Another lure attractive to muskrat and raccoon. The genuine oil, if you can find it at all, is pretty expensive, but the substitute is effective.

I'm sure I'll think of others later, but these are the oils most commonly used today. Next, I'll go into some of the glands, animal by-products and animal parts used in the trapping trade. as always, questions and comments are welcome.

Onward and upward,
airforce

SCENT GLANDS AND EXTRACTS

Animal glands are always in demand. Even if you don't use them yourself, lure manufacturers are always looking for them. If you're a trapper these days, you need to take advantage of every income and saving opportunity you can. The saving and use of animal glands and other parts are the hallmark of an intelligent trapper.

TINCTURE OF DEER MUSK

On the inside rear legs of domestic deer you will find a dark, oily patch of hair. These are the deer musk glands. These should be cut out immediately--hair, skin, and all--and placed in a jar as soon as possible after taking the deer. Cover the glands with cheap vodka (the original recipe called for "good quality moonshine"), cap tightly, shake vigorously, ans set it on a shelf.

In the spring, pour off the liquid. This will be tincture of deer musk, exactly the same as the $5 an ounce stuff that you can buy. It's a top-notch deer attractor, and also valuable as a dog-breaking scent. People also use it to cover up human scent, which I think is pretty much impossible. Still, you can make a little money with this.

What I've never been able to do is incorporate it into a lure for other critters. It just doesn't work like tonquin, the artificial musk from the Asian deer.

MINK GLANDS

Just about all mink musk materials come from mink ranches. Wild mink almost invariably release all of their musk when they are caught. Sometimes mink caught in a 110 body-grip trap will be dispatched so quickly that it will retain its musk, but this is definitely the exception rather than the rule.

There may be a farmer in your area who has a few breeding mink in his barn. If so, you might be able to work out a deal to buy his glands. Otherwise, you're pretty much stuck with paying retail from lure manufacturers for these glands.

MUSKRAT

Muskrat glands or pods are sort of a pinkish yellow in color, and sort of look like lima beans. They are located just to either side of the anal opening, clinging to the large intestine. For most of the year they lie flat, but during the spring mating season they begin to fill with a pus-like substance that is the musk. The glands are most valuable at this time.

BEAVER

Beaver castors are also located on either side of the anal vent opening, and are readily noticeable when skinning the animal. The castors are actually tied together by a cord-like tissue, and they should not be separated. As winter gets closer, these castors begin to fill with a yellowish pus-like substance called castoreum and have a strong musky odor. You should contact your castor buyer and ask him how he wants you to process these castors, since buyers sometimes have differing needs.

The castors themselves are fed by oil sacs that are slightly different in color from the castors. The oily substance in these sacs are of special interest to lure manufacturers. This oil should be kept separate from the oil from castors.

If you are selling them directly to a manufacturer, ask him how he wants you to process them. If keeping them for your own use, hold the oil sacs between your thumb and forefinger and squeeze out the oil into a container. The empty sacs themselves should then be ground up for later use.

I'll continue this later. As always, questions and comments are welcome.

Onward and upward,
airforce

RACCOON

The gall from the liver is the only gland from raccoons that has any significant value. It can be removed, ground up while still fresh, and mixed with raccoon urine to provide a natural scent lure for use during semi-hibernation periods. It is also used to lay a trail to simulated dens and trees, for use in training raccoon hounds.

When I was a kid, I used to experiment with other raccoon parts, including the reproductive organs, and even the foot pads and claws. None of them did anything.

CANINES

The primary gland product from canines is found near the vent opening on either side, and is actually a part of the anus. Before and after the breeding season, the scent substance is not readily noticeable. When it is present, it is sort of yellow in color, with a fluid-like consistency. However, there is always enough scent present to save these glands. Using a very sharp knife, cut out the entire anal opening. You may think there is a lot of fat clinging to this, but don't remove it since the fat is actually desirable.

Other canine parts commonly used are the ear lobes and cartilage, the brains, the spleen (located inside the body cavity and looking more like snot than anything else), the gall from the liver, the bladder and contents, the foot pads, and the reproductive glands and organs.

SKUNKS

When I was a kid, a local beekeeper was having a terrible problem with skunks (and opossums too, to a lesser extent). These critters love insects, and bees in particular. A skunk will position itself just outside the hive opening, catch bees with their front paws, and roll them around on the ground until they're dead. These critters have an insatiable appetite, and they consume quite a few bees. This is especially a problem early in the honey season, when the hive population should be expanding rapidly. It also makes the bees upset and, if there's one thing a beekeeper doesn't like, it's upset bees. In desperation, the beekeeper offered me a bounty of a couple dollars for every skunk I could get rid of.

That was a pretty profitable enterprise for me. In addition to the bounty, I sold the pelts for a buck or two, and the essence for another buck or more. That might not sound like much these days, but back when the minimum wage was a dollar an hour, that was one heck of a lot of money.

Most trappers just don't want to mess with skunks, for obvious reasons. Many trappers waste the entire critter. Still others do nothing more than extract whatever skunk essence they can with a hypodermic needle, and throw the carcass away. If that's all you want to do, that's fine--but in my opinion, it's an unconscionable waste.

It goes without saying that you should be careful extracting the skunk sacs. The essence itself is sort of a yellowish or greenish-yellow in color. The sacs themselves are located just to either side of the anal opening.

The method I use for extracting the essence is to, first of all, wear rubber or nylon gloves. I use a wide-mouth gallon jar and, taking one sac in each hand and being careful of my aim, squeeze both sacs.

This essence is valuable. At times, I've seen it sell for more than the pelt. And about forty years ago, articles in various outdoor magazines popularized the practice of deer and predator hunters to slather themselves in this stuff, supposedly to mask their human scent. (Beginning trappers are notorious for using this stuff at sets they have just made, also hoping it will mask their scent.) So please, don't waste this stuff.

(Just as an aside, about thirty years ago when Soldier of Fortune Magazine still had a classified section, one enterprising trapper was advertising this stuff at the unheard price of $15 an ounce, guaranteeing that it was indeed "the real stuff." "Consider the possibilities," the ad said. That fellow, with his imagination, just has to be a millionaire now.)

After the sacs are emptied, don't throw them away. Put them in a separate jar, along with all the surrounding fat, and save them until you have at least a pint. Then, following the directions for sun-rendered fish oil above, leave them in the sun for at least one summer and preferably two. Then, on a warm day, pour off the rich brown liquid and bottle.

This is sun-rendered skunk oil, and there is no better long-range fox lure than this.

Since few people are trapping these days, skunks can be as profitable for you as they once were for me. It's no longer unusual to see them in suburban garages and patios, and homeowners will be happy to pay you for getting rid of them. Whenever I wanted to trap on someone's farm, I often offered to get rid of the skunks living the the farmer's basement for free, in exchange for permission to trap.

Onward and upward,
airforce

URINES

Urines are one of the best of all natural scent attractors. Urines are almost always collected by drip pans from caged animals. The best urines are from females in heat, and from animals that have been fed wild meats.

In one of his trapping books, Ragnar Benson mentioned that he usually sprinkles a few drops around a set, "Although I'm not sure it does any good." Well, if all he's doing is using a few drops, that's a question I can answer for him. It's not doing any good. Most lures and ingredients should be used sparingly, but urines are the exception that proves the rule. For canines especially, less than an ounce of urine at a set just isn't going to do anything.

The reason is simple. Urines are easily absorbed by the soil, and readily evaporate. For urines, you should plan what you will need, and buy them in such quantity as to take advantage of every volume discount you can. Insist on only pure urines and, if freezing temperatures are expected, mix just enough glycerine oil in it to prevent freezing. (Urine-based lures that contain fatty substances will usually form a natural antifreeze, that will eliminate the need for glycerine oil. Oil, fat, and alcohol-based lures shouldn't freeze.)

Many older books and articles say that urines, when stored for some time, should have the caps loosened to allow for ammonia to escape. However, I've found that this is not necessary. I add about half a teaspoon of plain cooking salt (non-iodized) per pint of urine, and cap it tightly. If there is a strong ammonia order by the time trapping season rolls around again, don't throw it away. Just add a little fresh urine to it, and go ahead and use it. Any excess ammonia will quickly evaporate at the set.

Over the years, I've tried various methods to prevent urine from dissipating as quickly as it does. Soaking a cotton ball in urine seemed to be the best method, but I would say the difference is pretty negligible. And mixing it with anhydrous lanolin to make it into a past bait seemed to be a total bust.

As always, questions and comments are welcome.

Onward and upward,
airforce

PHENYL ACETIC ACID CRYSTALS

This has a honey-like odor, and is one of the best ingredients to use when a honey odor is needed. I've even heard it claimed that this surpasses even the odor of natural strained honey. It's attractive to muskrat, beaver, fox, and especially raccoon. It's often used in conjunction with muskrat musk, and sometimes ambrette.

ALCOHOL

This always refers to grain alcohol, never to wood, isopropyl, or denatured alcohol. A lot of my old recipes call for "good quality moonshine." Since the grandkids of the old moonshiners around here have discovered that meth is more lucrative, it's hard to find around here anymore. Fortunately, cheap vodka works just as well.

GLYCERINE or GLYCERINE OIL

See the section on urines. This product is only of importance in urine-based baits and lures. I also use it to preserve lower-quality "fish juice."

PROPYLENE GLYCOL

Another preservative, it is also used for tincturing powders, crystals, and other materials.

SODIUM BENZOATE

Also known as "Bait Maker's Compound." Back in the olden days, folks with dairy cows would add a spoonful or so of this compound to their milk containers, before placing them out on the road for pickup, particularly on warm days, to slow spoilage of the milk. It's use for trappers is much the same, to prevent flesh bait and other materials from decomposing further after reaching the desired level of taint. it's also used to "quiet down" glands and secretions during the aging process.

ZINC VALERATE

Not to be confused with valerian, it has the same usage as sodium benzoate. Much more powerful, only about 1/6 of zinc valerate is needed as is sodium benzoate.

20 MULE TEAM BORAX

Ths has been used as a preservative of flesh baits, much like sodium benzoate, though I don't think it's quite as effective. Some old-time trapping articles suggest placing some of this powder in raccoon, fox, and coyote tails to aid in the stretching and drying process. however, don't do this without checking with your fur buyer first. If this interferes with whatever tanning process he uses, it could make your pelts worthless.

SEAL OIL
TURTLE OIL
RATTLESNAKE OIL

Used as a base, much like fish oil, in some old-time recipes. I've never used any of them. And I don't even think seal oil is available at all anymore.

As always, your questions and comments are welcome.

Onward and upward,
airforce

I'm not a trapper and seldom see many of the animals mentioned in SoCal but this thread was very interesting.

I'm not sure how to use the knowledge yet and sort of wish that I could hang out with you so you could actually show me how to make them and use them. It could be a very important skill in the not to distant future and unfortunately something that we might have to pass down in a hurry.

Well, I'm glad someone is finding this useful, Archangel1. I'm just getting started on this, what you see so far is pretty much just an introduction. If I have time tomorrow, I'll start actually giving some recipes for some of these baits and lures.

There are plenty of books and articles on trapping, and there are some examples available online , and I'll certainly be throwing my own experience into this project, but nothing beats just plain going out there and trying it. You probably won't have much success at first, but you will be learning.

I don't know what critters there are in your neck of the woods, but I'd be willing to bet there's more rabbits, squirrels, and muskrats there than you may think. There are a number of field guides to animal tracks and signs, but for my money this is the best of them . Get a copy of this, and take a walk around the woods or a local park. Get yourself used to looking for footprints, chewed or scratched bark on trees, and nibbled ends of young shoots. See any cattails? I'll bet there's a critter around there eating them.

You have to get used to seeing things you've seen your whole life, but in a different light. If you know what critters are around, I'll guarantee you can catch them. It just takes practice and patience.

Onward and upward,
airforce

Okay, let's get started making some skunk and opossum baits. Both of these critters are increasingly making their homes in suburban areas. The opossum is even establishing itself in New York City, thanks to some unnamed bureaucrat who thought it might be a good idea to bring in opossums to help control the rodent population. So now, if you live in Brooklyn, it's no longer unusual to see these things slinking around.

Skunk and opossum lure #1

Proportionately, this consists of 32 parts boned chicken and 32 parts boned fish. Following the directions for sun-rendered fish oil above, cut into cubes, place in glass jars, and let it rot in the sun until it turns to liquid.

When used in a box trap or cubby set, about a teaspoonful is enough when used alone. If you're using it with another bait such as overripe fruit, use about half a teaspoon.

Note that you may attract a coon to this set also, since they don't mind smelly baits at all. And if you think there may be a fox in the area, add 1 part asafoetida and 1/2 part skunk essence.

Skunk and opossum bait #2

This loud stink bait is made by combining rotten eggs with rank limburger cheese (that's the cheese that smells like a Frenchman's foot, even on a good day).

Limburger cheese comes in two types. If it's the kind that comes in slabs, it can be used as is. If it comes in a jar, place it out in the sun with the lid loosened for a few weeks to allow it to turn rank.

The eggs should be allowed to turn half rotten, so that they provide loud egg odors, but are not so rotten that you can't tell they're eggs.

Break the eggs and put them into some container such as a sauce pan, shells and all. Spoon the cheese over the eggs and stir well. Add a few drops of strong fixative such as rue and about a half pint of glycerine oil.

Place the container of the roof of a shed, or someplace where the sun will warm the contents for about three weeks. Put a pane of glass over the container, weighted down with a brick or stone, and oversized to keep out the rain.

When this is completed, hold your nose and spoon the contents into bottles for later use. Use about a heaping tablespoon at a set. Raccoon and gray fox may also visit this set, since they don't seem to mind stink baits either.

Onward and upward,
airforce

Airforce,

We have lots of rabbits [live in Conejo (rabbit) Valley], bobcat, squirrels, gophers, ground squirrel (huge local problem in the park), opossum, skunk, deer, coyote, raccoon, mountain lion, rattlesnakes, guail, hawk, dove, rats, mice, supposedly boar nearby and even black bear about 25-30 miles away.

What kind of traps do you use? I'm also not sure about the trapping laws here in SoCal.

You name the trap, and I've used it. I primarily use steel leg hold traps for fur, and box traps for food. Snares are illegal in Oklahoma now, but I've certainly used them in the past. In addition, I have a few 110 Conibear traps I use mostly for muskrats.

For rabbits and squirrels, I recommend box traps, usually baited with apple and some apple essence to call the rabbit over. (Steel leg hold traps should never be used for rabbit, since the critter will often wring it off, resulting in an injured animal. And if he doesn't, more often than not some other critter will get to it before I do.)

I like the commercial Havahart traps, but there are plenty of designs available for homemade box traps if you're at all handy with tools. Most of the skunks I've caught were in homemade box traps or baited cubbies, with both ends open, and with a steel trap guarding both entrances.

I stay away from spring-pole snares, for a couple reasons. First of all, I can never find a suitable sapling where I want to put the trap, and, secondly, I've never had any success at all with snares at baited cubbies. (I know, every survival book has examples of snares at baited cubbies. It makes me wonder if the authors of these books have ever actually trapped anything.) Add to that the fact that spring-pole snares are pretty obvious to anyone who happens across it--including game wardens--and you can see why I avoid them.

If you're trapping skunks in a suburban area, by all means use a box trap. You really don't want to take a chance on injuring someone's pet in a steel trap.

If you're trapping skunks on a large scale, you might invest in a pole syringe and some euthanasia fluid , but check your local laws first. You're probably supposed to get some sort of license first, at least in California. Otherwise, skunks trapped in a cage or box trap can be dispatched by shooting or by drowning.

I appreciate your interest. I was really wondering if anyone was reading this. As time goes on, I'll be including more trapping hints that will hopefully clear some things up for you. But again, nothing beats getting out there and actually doing it.

Onward and upward,
airforce

I really have a lot to learn. I barely understand the trap terminology but that's how one learns.
I assume a box trap are the metal traps where the door drops behind the animal. I assume the spring-pole trap is a noose trap. I assume the steel leg hold trap are the toothed traps that snap together to grap the animals leg that are often used in macabe horror movies. Am I on target?

Thanks for sharing.

Yes, you are, although the leg hold traps usually have smooth edges. The older toothed jaws are collectors items now, because of the danger to pets, children, and the trapper himself.

You can see some examples of steel traps here . I usually use #1 long spring or #1 double jaw coil spring traps for muskrat and muskrat-raccoon combination sets (which are always attached to drowning rigs). Skunk, opossum, and land raccoon sets usually get a 1 1/2 trap. Most catalogs will list what animals are targeted with each trap, which is a pretty useful guideline for the beginner.

Here are some examples of live-catch traps. And here is a video on how to construct a simple box trap . And see this video also. You really don't need a lot of skills to construct one of these simple box traps. I was doing it when I was a kid, and I'm certainly no carpenter. And there are kits available for turning buckets, barrels, and even pvc pipe into traps, though I've never tried any of them.

Some authors such as Ragnar Benson really dislike coil spring traps, because they tend to weaken over time. They do, but beefer and replacement kits are available to replace the springs if they do weaken. I've been using some of my coil spring traps for years, and they still work well. The reason I prefer long spring traps, I think, is just because I'm an old fart. I was using long spring traps when I was a kid. They're a little harder to work with but, if you take care of them, they'll last longer than I will.

Onward and upward,
airforce

Cool. I know how to make a wooden box trap to catch rabbits. Actually, pretty easy.

We have a rabbit problem and now I have a solution. I just need to make some rabbit bait.

Once you catch rabbits or other animals, do you kill the rabbits in the trap with anything special?

Nothing special. I usually shoot them in the head with one of my high-powered air rifles. (I used to use CCI CB caps, because they were quieter than regular .22 bullets, but air rifles these days are powerful enough for most critters.)

For other critters such as raccoons, or especially fox or coyote, I just don't take any chances. One of these trapped critters will take your leg off if given a chance. A .22 to the head is the preferred way to do it, preferably through the top of the head and out the lower jaw so that it leaves only one hole in the pelt. I will usually club a raccoon or fox so as to leave no holes, and shoot a coyote.

For muskrats and any other critter trapped in or near water, a drowning rig is used. It prevents wring-offs or chew-offs for muskrats, and I really think it's the most humane way to dispatch these animals quickly.

Bait for rabbits is pretty simple. I like apple slices with a little apple essence on top. (This is one of the few times I recommend placing the lure on top of the bait.) Carrot tops also work well, perhaps with a few drops of fennel if you happen to have some around. In winter, you might try corn on the cob or hay, especially alfalfa.

Keep in mind that skunks and opossums are pretty dumb, and may not figure out that your trap is only for rabbits. Be prepared to deal with whatever you may catch.

Onward and upward,
airforce

Thanks!

Now I need an air rifle too.

That's nothing. Wait until you need a pelting knife, a necker knife, steel stretchers, wood stretchers, a fur comb, a fleshing beam...

MUSKRATS

It would be accurate to say the North American fur market is in a depression these days. People just aren't buying furs anymore. These days, we trap critters in the United States, and sell them through the Canadian fur auctions to Chinese sweatshops that turn them into fashionable garments for wealthy customers in Moscow. You can blame PETA, or Obama, or the economy in general, but that's the reality.

The one exception is, surprisingly, muskrat pelts. At a recent Canadian auction muskrat pelts were bringing over $8 a pelt, and prices of $5 or $6 were common last season. That might not seem like much until you realize that even novice trappers can catch several muskrat a day, and you can easily skin, flesh, and stretch half a dozen muskrats in the time it will take you to process one raccoon or fox pelt. In short, you can make money trapping muskrats, even in this market.

I used to tell people I never used lure for muskrats. I was lying, of course. True, when muskrats are plentiful, you really don't need it and have little time to use it. However, eventually that colony of muskrats will be reduced enough that they become harder to catch. You should probably pull your traps and place them somewhere else, but you just don't always have the time or inclination to do so. Using a little lure will keep the muskrats coming until you're ready to change locations.

And, when your knees become a little too arthritic to climb down into creek beds that you once navigated with ease, a good lure will call them from where they're at to where your traps are. Still other times, the muskrats are located on land that, for one reason or another, you just can't trap. Again, a good lure will help you out.

Wherever muskrats are, there's a pretty good bet that raccoons are there too. I almost always have some sort of muskrat-raccoon combination set wherever I have muskrat traps. Later on, I'll have some recipes that work for both muskrat and raccoon. But for now, I'll just have some straight muskrat lures.

In most cases, I use just sweetflag, peppermint, or spearmint oil for muskrats. However, they just don't always work (and I'm at a loss to explain why). When they don't I use one of the following lures. All of these are old and famous, and one has even become legendary (partly, perhaps, because it can't be found anymore). Without further ado, here they are.

A LEGENDARY MUSKRAT LURE

This consisted, as near as I can tell, of 16 parts catfish livers that had been rotted for two years in the dark, probably in a shed or barn, 16 parts muskrat pods that had been sun-dried and preserved in moonshine (not rotted), and one part cherry oil. Grind everything together and leave in a large batch for a while to allow the odors to blend, then grind again and bottle.

For decades at least, someone in Louisiana was supplying the catfish livers and muskrat glands. Then, nearly sixty years ago, mail sent to them started being returned. These folks had apparently always been secretive and, as far as I know, never advertised what they were doing. And suddenly they were impossible to find. Among my grandfather's papers was a letter sent to these folks, ordering $10 of their lure. The envelope was marked "Return to Sender."

Old-time lure manufacturer R. E. Burt supposedly traveled to Louisiana to find out what was up. Some say the locals refused to talk to him, others say he was warned away at the point of a shotgun. Some say the owner of the business was sent to prison for murder, or manslaughter, or tax evasion, or moonshining, or is alligator bait in some bayou somewhere. Some say he never recovered from a broken heart after his son was killed in Korea.

So, nobody knows what happened to the folks who provided the ingredients for this lure, and I don't know of anyone who tried to copy it. I'm not saying that no one is making it; I'd be willing to bet someone is. But whoever it is, they're as secretive about it as their predecessor.

If anyone knows where I can get this lure today, please send me a PM. I promise I will not post the details here.

MUSKRAT LURE #2

Put 6 oz. of glycerine oil in a clean jar, add 1 oz. ambrette musk, shake well, and let stand for two weeks, shaking it again after about a week. Then add 1 oz. sweetlag oil, 1 oz. carrot or fennel oil, and 1 oz. catnip oil. Shake well, and let stand six weeks to age.

MUSKRAT LURE #3

2 oz. glycerine oil
1 oz. fennel oil
1/4 oz. ambrette musk
1/4 oz. tonquin
1/4 oz. catnip oil
1/4 oz. carrot oil
1/4 oz. beaver castor, ground finely

Let stand six weeks, shaking once a week.

MUSKRAT LURE #4

1 oz. sweetlag oil, 1 oz. beaver castor, 4 drops catnip oil, and 3 drops ambrette musk oil. Shake well, and again at the set. About 1/8 ounce at a set is plenty.

MUSKRAT LURE #5

1/2 oz. beaver castor, 1 oz. sweetflag oil. Shake lightly, and shake again at the set. About 1/8 ounce at a set is more than enough.

The best part about the last two is you don't have to allow them to age. They're ready to go whenever you are.

As always, questions, comments, criticisms, and even rants are welcome.

Onward and upward,
airforce

THE PROPER USE OF BAITS AND LURES

Lets take another short detour here, and consider the proper use of attractors in trapping animals. Beginning trappers--and more than a few experienced ones also--depend on baits and lures more than their own trapping skills. They use far too much bait and lure, often attracting nontarget animals from some distance away that ordinarily would not visit the location. Or, just as often, they provide too little, so that the set quits working because what odors were there--if any--is soon dissipated.

I'll try to cover some of the factors of odor attractors, and try to clear up some of the mystery. I should note here that, whatever the bait or lure is, it is the odor that is important. If the sight of a bait plays any part at all in attracting animals, I have yet to notice it.

It seems obvious, but the entire concept of attractor placement is that the animal must trigger the trap to get to it. If the animal backs away from the trap and reaches the bait or lure from some other direction without triggering a trap, then the design of the set was faulty. (Often, a lure is placed higher up in a bush or weed. In this case the lure was used to attract the animal to the vicinity of the set, where the bait itself becomes the primary attractor. But this really is not an exception to this basic rule.)

(Note also that this means the bait should not be placed on the trap pan or trigger. We want to catch the animal by the leg, not the nose.)

The amount of food odors needed at a set is based on the strength of the scent, but only to a certain extent. A half bottle of lure may not provide anymore attraction than a few drops, depending on the concentration and the materials comprising the attractor. By way of example, you will need about twice as much tincture of skunk essence as you would straight essence to get the same effect.

However, just to complicate this further, weather conditions will affect the call of the attractor. Sometimes wind currents can cause the odors to merely move around the immediate vicinity of the set, out of reach of any passing animal. In such cases, the lure should be placed higher up, on a weed or bush, to catch the wind currents and carry the odor further. Likewise, dry or humid air, dampness, snow, rain, and cloudy conditions can all help to stifle odors. Quantity and placement may have to be provided not only behind the trap but above it, in order to allow the odors to travel further. And you may have to reapply lure more often under such conditions.

All too often, the soil itself will absorb the odors. Very often, a ball of cotton to hold the lure will allow the odors to persist for several days longer.

Scents made from gland materials generally last quite some time, but even with these you may have to apply more lure after a rainfall. Even here, if you expect rain, using dry leaves as both a base and a cover material will provide some protection. A little extra lure at this type of a set, to make up for the leaves covering it, can make a huge difference.

Well, did I make that about as clear as mud? As always, your questions are welcome.

Onward and upward,
airforce

TAINTING AND ROTTING DOWN

Particularly for prepared baits and lures for fox and coyote, you will see recipes calling for "tainted" or "rotted down" materials. What is the difference, and how is it done? the following two recipes for fox and coyote bait should illustrate the difference, and demonstrate the steps involved.

TAINTED WILD ANIMAL FLESH BAIT

This is composed of the meats from any two or more of the following animals: Muskrat, beaver, groundhog, and red fox. The meats should be rinsed in cold water and be free of all hair, intestines, and skin. They should then be frozen, then chopped into roughly 3/4" cubes.

Into large glass jars, place about 1/2 oz. of finely ground beaver castor, 1/4 oz. of ambrette musk, and about 1/2 oz. of muskrat musk. Shake the jars so that these ingredients are along the sides of the jars as well as along the bottom, then add the chunks of flesh so that the jars are about 1/2 full. On top of the meats add the same ingredients as before, allowing them to seep down into the chunks. Put the lids on loosely, to allow gas to escape.

Now, bury the jars in a well-drained spot, with about six inches of loose dirt over them. Be sure to put a large rock or a sheet of plywood over them, or dogs will dig them up.

After about a week or so, the meats will begin to break down, absorbing the odors of the added ingredients. Allow this process to continue for roughly six to ten weeks, digging them up and shaking them about every two weeks. We want the chunks of meat to taint as uniformly as possible, by replacing on the bottom with those on top.

When it is done, the outer surface of the chunks should be sort of a grayish-brown, while the core remains a rich red.

When you feel the process is complete, make a basket from 1/4" or 1/2" hardware wire and hang it inside a clean plastic bucket. Dump the chunks of tainted meat into the basket, allowing the liquids to seep into the bucket, after which the chunks are returned to a clean jar. The liquids are returned to another clean, dry jar.

In the jar of flesh chunks, add about five large tablespoons of Bait Maker's Compound and shake briskly, so that the powder covers all of the chunks. In the jar with the liquid, add about half as much Bait Maker's Compound and again shake briskly.

Place the caps on loosely, to allow for any remaining gas to escape, and store in a cool, dark place, until ready for use. At the set, place about two or three chunks, or a large tablespoon full, or both in combination. At a dirt hole set, I will typically put a couple chunks inside the hole, and about half a spoonfull on the back edge of the hole.

ROTTED MOUSE, MOLE, SHREW BAIT

These little critters are the main diet of both fox and coyote. They can be found around grain fields, grain elevators, grassy and brushy fields, and streams. They can be caught in a variety of traps, the Katchall probably being the most practical for our purposes. Moles can be caught with plunger-type traps, with many homeowners more than happy to pay you a couple bucks to rid them from their lawns.

The most practical time to collect these critters is from about midsummer to early fall. Place them into glass jars as they are collected, along with a little collected rainwater. The jars can be kept in a shed, barn, or other outbuilding until cold weather sets in, after which they should be moved to some heated location, though not too close to a heating unit. As always, allow for gas to escape.

When the contents have broken down into liquid or semi-liquid, add a few drops of cumin or some other strong fixative, and about half a pint of glycerine oil. Stir the contents well before use.

This bait, like the one above, can be used at any fox or coyote set that calls for a strong food attractor, but is mainly used for dirt hole sets. When used alone, about a teaspoon is enough for a set. When used with some other food attractor or lure, use about half as much.

The first time you use this type of bait, the rankness will likely take you by surprise. You may even think you must have done something wrong, and think about throwing it away. Don't. It's supposed to smell that bad. You can alleviate some of the rankness by adding a little beaver castor or tinctured skunk essence (yes, you read that right, skunk essence improves the smell), which seems to add to the calling power.

As always, question and comments are welcome. Anyone having second thoughts about trapping?

Onward and upward,
airforce

I find this topic fascinating although my stomach keeps turning with the thought of making and using bait. Thanks for posting!

I'm glad you like this topic, but I sure wish I wasn't making you sick with it! Actually, I think that's how you know your lure is good--when it makes you upchuck, you know it's ready to use.

RACCOON LURES

Raccoons aren't too particular about what they eat. they definitely have their preferences, but I have yet to find a bait or lure that a raccoon won't take.

Many years ago when I was stationed at Offutt AFB near Omaha, I thought I would try my hand at trapping part time, on my days off. I don't know how many folks told me I was crazy. "All we have are corn fields, separated by a few clumps of trees," they said. "There aren't any raccoons around here!"

I had to laugh. Compared to where I grew up, that is just classic coon country. As an example, I was scouting around one day and found a bunch of raccoon tracks running from a culvert into a 400-hog feeder operation. I made contact with the farmer, and asked if I could trap on his land. As was typical, he laughed. "Raccoons? Here? All I have here are hogs!"

His laughter started ebbing when I showed him the coon tracks. He quit laughing altogether, when I showed him the contents of his hog feed: Fish meal, molasses, corn, and sorghum. Seriously, they should have labeled the feed sack RACCOON BAIT. And when I showed him all those raccoon tracks were leading directly to his feed troughs and he saw where his profits were going, he quickly gave me permission to trap.

I took over a dozen big raccoon from that farm is less than a month, trapping part-time. That was a quick $400, without a whole lot of work.

RACCOON-MUSKRAT LURE #1

To a quart Mason jar, add 5 oz. glycerine oil or propylene glycol, 1 oz. trout oil or other clean fish oil, 1 oz, beaver castor, and 1/4 oz. tonquin. Shake lightly, then add 1 oz. phenyl acetic acid crystals and 1/4 oz. honey essence oil. Shake well. May be used immediately, but will be better if allowed to age for a couple weeks.

RACCOON-MUSKRAT LURE #2

Mix 1/3 spearmint oil to 2/3 peppermint oil, shake lightly, and let stand overnight. A week of aging will improve this one also.

RACCOON-MUSKRAT LURE #3

1 oz. trout oil or other clean fish oil
2 oz. glycerine oil
1 oz. cherry oil
1/4 oz. beaver castor
1/4 oz. phenyl acetic acid crystals
1/4 oz. muskrat glands
2 drops tonquin

Mix well, let stand for about six weeks, shaking every couple weeks.

That should get you started trapping the bandits!

Onward and upward,
airforce

You crack me up. Thanks for the lessons. My son's friend tells me that he has 3-4 coons in his backyard. Will one of the box traps for which you sent me weblinks work for these critters? I'm not sure about making the lures. Yak!

They will, but the box will have to be quite a bit larger. I have a Havahart trap for raccoon, and the dimensions are 36" long by 11" wide by 11" tall. I've never built a wooden box trap that large, but I don't see why it can't be done. As with the rabbit traps, use hardware mesh to give the raccoon the impression of openness.

For a lure for land-trapping raccoon, anise oil is about the best lure there is. I would try that first, perhaps with a little honey or a can of sardines. In the next day or two, I'll hopefully have enough time for a few more raccoon baits and lures.

Onward and upward,
airforce

One problem with raccoon box and cage traps, which I forgot to mention above, is that it is difficult to place the bait inside. Your arms just aren't quite long enough to place the bait where it has to go, in the back of the box. Some tongs will help somewhat, but it's still quite a reach. I can't imagine that it would be any easier with a wooden box trap.

SINGLE INGREDIENT RACCOON BAITS AND LURES

Anise oil, honey, phenyl acetic acid crystals, canned sardines or canned salmon (both using all the oil in the can), fish oil or fish juice.

If I had to choose any one ingredient as a "secret ingredient," it would be anise oil. I have caught raccoons in baited cubbies (which, essentially, is what a cage or wooden box trap is) with nothing more than than anise oil. However, it's more valuable as a lure. Place the anise a little higher up, on a weed or bush, to attract the bandit to the vicinity, then use the bait to draw him into the trap. As a lure for raccoons, anise oil is simply the best there is. Try it first and, if it doesn't work, then try one of the others.

For bait, raccoons are pretty catholic in their preferences. An ear of corn will work, as will over ripe fruit and berries, the tainted flesh bait described above, fish and fish oil, honey, molasses, and grains.

The problem is, a lot of these will catch skunks and opossums too, so the trick is to use baits that will be more attractive to raccoons but be less enticing to the unwanted critters. The following qualify, but be aware that any of these will also get skunks and opossums. Be ready to deal with anything you have.

PORK BAIT FOR RACCOON AND FOX

This is made by combining hog cracklins and pork with lard. Ask your butcher or meat processor for some of the cheaper cuts of pork, and cut these up into about 3/4" cubes, or strips about that much deep and wide. Place these into a frying pan and sear over low heat, so that the outer edges are scorched, while the inside is soft but still well cooked. Do not use any oil or grease.

Then place some cracklins into the pan with the pork, mix well, and cook only long enough for the cracklins to become soft.

Then, put a couple large spoonfuls of lard over the meat and cracklins and stir while the lard melts. After a few minutes, remove from heat and spoon everything into glass jars. Place the jar into the refrigerator long enough for the lard to congeal and lock in the meat and cracklins. Put the lids on the jars and store in a cool, dark place until ready for use.

I think the "yuck factor" is pretty minimal with this one.

RACCOON BAIT #2

Here's a bait that works well for raccoon and, better yet, the "yuck factor" is nonexistent!

This one is especially good where a larger quantity of bait is needed, such as near hog feeder operations where there is already plenty of food. The molasses is both a great food call for raccoons, and a great filler additive.

The formula I use is 4 ounces of molasses, 4 ounces of strained honey, and 8 ounces of barley corn. Stir briskly in a pot, then add 1 ounce of phenyl acetic acid crystal and 1/2 ounce of fennel or rhodium oil. Stir briskly while warming over low heat, then pour into glass jars. Let age for at least a month. (It is best to start preparing this bait a month or so before the trapping season starts.)

RACCOON LURE #1

Into a clean glass quart jar add 4 oz. trout oil or other clean fish oil, and 1/2 oz. each of honey essence and phenyl acetic acid crystals. Shake well and let stand for a week. then let stand another week, shaking for a few minutes every other day.

Then add 1/2 oz. beaver castor, 1 oz. muskrat musk, 1/2 oa. valerian extract oil, and 4 drops of tinctured tonquin, or 2 drops pure. Shake well, and allow to age for at least 8 weeks without further shaking.

RACCOON LURE #2

1 oz. glycerine oil
1 oz. trout oil or other clean fish oil
1 oz. beaver castor, muskrat musk, and muscaro in combination
1/4 oz. ambrette musk
1/4 oz. phenyl acetic acid crystals
6 drops artificial tonquin
3 drops ambergris or canton musk
3 drops anise

Let age at least six weeks.

Onward and upward,
airforce

Wow! What an amazing resource you are, airforce. I have dabbled in trapping, with both box and leghold traps, I have caught a few coons, possums, a fox, a couple feral cats and set a trap for a friend which landed a nice bobcat. I've missed a few coyotes, those guys are smart.

Anyhow, I'd just like to thank you for the thread, and apologize for my absence on the forum. I've been prepping away, getting things in order for things to come. I hope you don't mind, but I'll be saving and printing this information for my post-SHTF library.

I don't mind at all, threequarterthrottle. I hope to get back to this soon. I have several more recipes for fox and coyote lures and baits. I've never done a lot of mink trapping, but I do have a couple mink lures also.

I can't recall if I've mentioned it before, but the fox lures I've mentioned so far are strictly for winter use. During the rest of the year, food is plentiful and canines are not attracted to to smelly, yucky rotted stuff. I've never done any fox trapping except in winter, so I'm probably not much use for the rest of the year.

Onward and upward,
airforce

REGULAR AND MATRIX FOX SCENTS

You will often see references to "regular" fox scents and "matrix" scents. What are they, and what is the difference?

Fortunately, that's a question that is easy to answer. Matrix scents make use of glands, urines, and other secretions that are extracted while the animal is in its mating and breeding season. For canines, this is relatively easy to see, because their fur takes on a "springy," less prime appearance. You can also look for tracks that indicate two or more foxes are traveling together, indicating they have paired up. Before the mating season, foxes are generally solitary animals.

Unfortunately, the exact time of the breeding season varies widely by area. For the red fox, this can begin as early as December, or as late as April. To make matters even more confusing, grey fox do not begin their cycles as early as red fox. In some areas, grey fox begin their mating cycles as much as six weeks after the red fox does. Generally, canines begin their season earlier in the south.

For muskrats and beaver, the matrix glands are pretty easy to tell, since that is the only time their glands are full. Outside of the mating season, muskrat glands lie flat against the intestine.

I've already mentions a few canine baits and lures above. Here are a few more:

CANINE BAIT #1

A pretty simple one. It's simply a skunk or mink carcass that has the scent glands still intact. (As mentioned above, unless you have access to a mink farm, it's rare to find a mink that still has its essence.)

Cover the carcass lightly with dirt at a dirt hole set, or anywhere else you need bait for canines. This fox bait is as old as the hills, but it still works.

CANINE BAIT #2

Like it or not, you will occasionally catch a rabbit or squirrel in a snare or steel trap. If it's still alive, take it home and cook the thing. But more often than not, you will find it partially eaten by some other critter. I don't know why, but a partially eaten carcass is probably the best bait there is. And if all that's left is a skeleton and hair, it's even better.

Use it as bait at a dirt hole set as above. Or, if you want to entice a fox to use a certain trail where you have a trap set, simply throw the carcass a few feet off the trail, and the fox will use it to investigate the odor. (And you thought snaremen never use bait!)

CANINE BAIT #3

Cut up a cattle liver into chunks as you did with sun-rendered fish oil. Spread some ground beaver castor around the inside of a gallon jar, place the liver chunks in the jar until it's about 3/4 full, add a little more beaver castor on top along with a bout 1/4 ounce of tonquin, and process the contents as you did with fish oil, for roughly 12 weeks. When the process is complete, ad a quart of glycerine oil and allow to age until you are ready to use, still allowing for gas to escape.

This bait works well even during rainy periods, when other baits and lures weaken.

FOX LURE #1

Skunk oil, the directions are in the section on skunks, above.

FOX LURE #2

16 parts rotted mice, 1 part mink musk, 4 parts muskrat musk, 5 drops skunk essence per pint. 1/2 part asafoetida or valerian my also be added, at your discretion.

FOX LURE #3

1 part chopped skunk fat, 2 ground mice, 1 pair skunk sacs about 1/4 full, 12 muskrat glands. Rot all summer, then grind.

CANINE LURE #4

Place 3 oz. trout oil or other clean fish oil and 2 oz. glands (of either fox or coyote, depending on which you want to catch) into a jar. Add 1/4 oz. beaver castor and 1/2 oz. muskrat glands. Shake well, and let stand two weeks. Add two drops valerian extract, 3 drops tonquin, and 1 drop pure or 2 drops tinctured skunk essence. Shake well again and let stand for six weeks.

FOX LURE #5

Here is an example of a "matrix" fox scent:

3 oz. fox glands and/or secretions, well aged
1/4 oz. urine from female in heat
1/2 oz. clean fish oil, or glycerine oil
2 drops ambergris
1 drop strong lovage, or 4 drops tinctured lovage
2 drops tinctured asafoetida, or 1 drop pure.

Make this lure in mid-summer, and allow to age until ready to use. If skunk essence is desired, it can be added about four weeks before use.

FOX SCENT #6

2 oz. fox glands/secretions, well aged
1/2 oz. coyote glands/secretions, well aged
1 oz. pure fox urine
1 oz. glycerine oil and/or clean fish oil
1 drop cumin
1 drop ambergris

Let age six weeks or more.

FOX LURE #7

2 oz. fox urine
1 oz. anal glands, finely ground
5 drops skunk essence
1 oz. fish oil
3 drops tonquin
1/2 oz. muskrat musk, finely ground
5 drops tinctured asafoetida

let age two months or longer.

COYOTE LURE #8

Taint well 4 oz. reproductive glands and anal glands. Then grind, and add urine and glycerine oil, and 4 drops asafoetida. Let stand for at least six weeks.

Onward and upward,
airforce

Lost the thread for the past week or two. Glad to find it again. There is so much that I don't know and I appreciate the opportunity to learn.

Cheers!

Glad you like it, Archangel1. I only have a few more odds-and-ends lure and bait formulas, but I'll add in a few trapping tips and techniques when I get the time.

In any event, this was never going to be an all-inclusive series. I've been experimenting with baits and lures for half a century, and I'm pretty sure I could go another half a century and still not know all there is about them. I really encourage you to play around and experiment, and learning what works in your neck of the woods.

Onward and upward,
airforce

FINDING FUR

Before you can hunt or trap game, you have to find it. If you can sight the animal, great, but this seldom happens. We find fur by locating game trails, and identify the animals by their tracks, their scat, or the hair they leave on branches, rocks, or barbed wire or woven wire fences.

Let me preface this by saying that I have virtually no experience in wilderness trapping. Most of my experience comes from trapping farmland. Not everyone lives in or plans to trap in this type of country, so much of this may not apply to you. However, many of the principles will serve you well in whatever type of country you set your traps in.

When looking for fur, think edges and corners. This is where animals usually travel.

Raccoons need three things: A woodlot where they will have their den trees, water, and food. In farmland, think corn. Corn is probably their favorite food, and when the corn canopies it gives them cover. If you find a corn field, you are just about guaranteed to find raccoon. A long, thin strip of grove or woodlot is better for finding the bandits that a huge forest or large woodlot, because they like to locate their den trees on the edges of the woodlot.

Raccoon will generally avoid a soybean field once the vines have grown over, because they find it difficult to travel trough the vines. With corn, it's the opposite. Travel is easier, and the overhead canopy gives them protection from aerial predators. They will generally travel parallel to the furrows for the length of the field, because it is easier than traveling across them.

Raccoon, like fox, will usually travel parallel to a fence until they come to a corner, where they will either turn or cross under the fence. You will sometimes see a hollow or crawl-through at other places along the fence, but don't count on it.

While raccoon will travel right along the fence, fox will travel a few yards away from the fence. If the field is plowed, look for their tracks in the dead furrow nearest the fence. Again, fox are drawn to corners so look for their sign there.

Likewise, animals will travel parallel to a hedgerow or weed line until they can find a low area or some sort of bridge or culvert to cross.

About corners, this is pretty difficult to describe. The corner may be square of course, and this is common in woven-wire country. But it doesn't have to be square.

Imagine a pie. Now, cut out a quarter of the pie, and look at what's left. You are looking at two outside corners, and one inside corner. Both of these would be hotspots for finding game. All critters like to travel the edges, and all edges will eventually come to a corner. whenever you see a corner, you will probably find a trail leading away from it. If there is good cover at the corner, it is just about guaranteed.

Look for corners of woodlots that meet a corner of a field or pasture. This is a hotspot for raccoon. Likewise, a clean field that corners into a weedy field, pasture, or for that matter just about anything else, will usually be a hotspot.

Animals, like people, try to find the easiest route to travel. They will climb up a bank to cross a road or some other obstruction, but they would prefer to find a culvert under the road, or a low saddle where they won't have to climb as high. Likewise, they would rather not climb down a steep bank and then back up another one. look where two ridges intersect; I'll bet you will find signs of game there. If they have to cross a stream or dry creek, look for a log the animals will use to cross.

Is there a cattle or hog feeding operation in your area? Look for tracks at the corners, and leading to the feed troughs. Raccoon will take a free meal the same as everyone else.

Fox like thick areas for hunting, since that's usually where the rodents are. Look around hay bales in pastures, since mice and voles like to live around them and foxes have learned this. In the winter, farmers will often store the large round bales in pastures separated by a couple feet, to allow air to circulate. Consider placing a flat set between the bales.

Barns often contain entire families of raccoon that the farmer would like taken out. There is seldom water in these old barns, so they have to travel out at some point. Look for their trails up against the barn, and where they are entering. Some barns and old houses have trees next to them, which the raccoon are using to enter the building.

Finding game is difficult to describe in words. Hopefully what I've written will give you a starting point, but nothing beats actually going out and looking.

Onward and upward,
airforce

Well, trapping season is here. Anyone doing any trapping this year? Anyone have any questions? Has this topic been helpful to anyone?

Onward and upward,
airforce

In most areas, trapping season is either over or about to be over. Anyone do any trapping this season? I'd love to hear about your experiences.

Onward and upward,
airforce

I never did get around to building the traps but often think about your lessons when I'm out hiking.

That's a pretty big first step! Have you noticed any tracks or other sign?

Onward and upward,
airforce

It's May, and the start of the bait and lure-making months. Anyone thinking of doing anything this year? Anyone have any questions or suggestions?

Onward and upward,
airforce

Anyone thinking of making any lures or baits this year?

Onward and upward,
airforce

FISH LURE

Here's something for all the fishermen out there. A friend tells me that various combinations of fish oil, anise, asafoetida, and rhodium, applied to the bait, will attract most fish. It's especially effective with fish that locate their food by smell, like bullheads, but he says he often scouts a new area with lures dipped in the stuff.

He doesn't use this when fishing in bass tournaments, where it's usually against the rules. But he's had quite a bit of success in tournaments, winning a new bass boat among other things, and he's something of a legend around Lake Skiatook, so I'm inclined to take him seriously.

Onward and upward,
airforce